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Saffron growers hate this one weird trick.


 

For Yellow Gloves.

Amidst rose petals lies a golden pollen.
Grind it fine with water,
and wash the pelt you'll make gloves from in it,
three times.

Beat the yolk of an egg well,
with common oil pressed from well-washed olives,
or oil of mastic, 
and grana tintorum.

Rub it into the skin,
Hard and well, 
Leave it for a day and a night.
Then, wipe it down with a sponge,
And the thing's done.

Blend good oil
with white wax.

fioretti gialli che stanno in mezzo le rose - Resolved this one by looking at a series of pictures of Rose pollen, which is not something you see very often. An alternative to Saffron, which then as now was very expensive. 

The Secrets literature often has the character of 'this one weird trick', which carries over into the Grimoires, and especially Le Petit Albert. The difference is this: here, the method is being presented as an economy, perhaps, or in lieu of the ideal; in the Grimoire literature, there is often a touch of villainy about it, the creation of a counterfeit. 

macina con l'acqua - in isolation, with water, but following on from the above, it might - might - imply Rosewater. Here experimentation - Doctor Experience, as Culpeper would say - is our teacher. Rosewater might well perfume the leather, but Doctor Experience teacheth me that Rose essence is exceedingly volatile, so I wonder whether any scent would be lost quickly, especially given the further vigorous processing. Dabbing with Rosewater as and when would be more effective, perhaps. 

olio comune d'oliva lavato - Then as now, Olive Oil was graded according to the state of the olives and the sequence of pressing. Insistence on the olives being washed is interesting, as it otherwise imparts an earthiness which might, unlike the more volatile Rose, characterise the leather. Also worth noting the recommendation of a middling oil, nothing special; a virgin oil might be wasted on so industrial a process, but also might impart its own sensory imprint. 

o di lentisco - Which perhaps underlines the point that a middling oil is less likely to impart its signature. Treatment with Mastic is likely to leave comparatively little sensory trace. 

polvere di grana tintorum - This carries us into the branch of the History of Art relating to colour, and it's all enchanting. Treat yourself. 

Tentatively, grana generally relates to pigment derived from insects, so this is more likely Cochineal than Madder. And here again, Doctor Experience peers at us above her spectacles and and we take the hint; only way to know for sure whether either is conducive to a yellow leather is to do it. My feeling is it would deepen it into something like an antique gold if you got it right. Get it wrong, and you have quite an expensive orange. 

olio di bene s'incorpora di cera bianca - Like Olive Oil, Wax was graded, and White Wax was the finest, used for the best candles, but also modelling, and carving and casting, as in the case of the Agnus Dei. A refined colourless beeswax, which like any wax would be blended turpentine, oil, fat or resin so as to be best fit for purpose, scented or in the lower grade waxes, as an economy. Naturally, some Grimoires in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries discuss this from the point of view of household economy or passing the inferior item off as something it isn't. 

Isabella's recipes sometimes close with these brief notes, which might point at the manuscript being transferred to print quite faithfully. Indeed, she recommends we keep our own Book of Secrets. 

Comments

  1. > Tentatively, grana generally relates to pigment derived from insects, so this is more likely Cochineal than Madder.

    Before the Spanish cornered the market on cochineal, the Old World has a plant known as Quercus coccifera, or kermes oak, named colloquially for its infestation by the kermes insect, which was mistaken in Pliny's day for small grains, hence the term "grana". You probably know this already, but the kermes red isn't as powerful or plentiful as the cochineal, and likely an excellent way to deepen the yellow to the desired hue without overpowering it. Once again, Dr. Experience saves the day!

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